Timeline

Italy is a remarkable country where certain stories seem to sum up an entire age, capturing in a nutshell the energy and courage of a glorious creativity, calling attention to a unique talent for invention and all the magic of an enterprising spirit. They are extraordinary stories that unfold quite normally, day by day.
Giuliana Marchini, age 15, lived in the town of Cattolica where her father Luigi had set up a small transport company after many years of hard work and sacrifice. Times were difficult in Italy back in the 1950s, people did without. And the family of this curious and lively girl who had clear ideas about the future could not afford to pay for her education. She’d learn a trade she thought. She’d follow the example of her neighbor and become a knitter, using lovely yarns to craft sweaters with her hands on a machine.
Getting the hang of the technique proved easy, but what about turning it into a way to fulfill her biggest dream, that of achieving economic independence with a career and a livelihood of her own? According to Italian tradition, she asked for help from her folks. Luigi Marchini, who knew how to evaluate both a business project and his daughter’s ambitions, did not hesitate to guarantee a loan from the Credito Romagnolo bank so she could buy a knitting machine.

A STARTUP COMPANY
The newly acquired device – the first of many – ended up in the living room at home. Then other girls came along to give her a hand, for the work had evolved into a neverending job, from six a.m. to midnight, knitting the items and then washing them (in the family clothes-washer, naturally).

Once word got around about the young knitter who made sweaters to measure, she found herself with a long list of customers. Soon she also began receiving orders from fancy clothing shops, among others Chic Parisien in Rimini. Thanks to rave reviews on the part of satisfied customers, Giuliana embarked on her entrepreneurial path. She extended her distribution network into the Romagna and Emilia areas of Italy, then with the aid of sales representatives into other regions of the country too. At that point she felt compelled to make a real quality leap and put together a sample collection. In other words, rather than creating custom pullovers for individual clients, she had to start manufacturing and delivering items on a vast scale. The imaginative hometown knitter became a businesswoman. A small one perhaps, yet as she had always dreamed a businesswoman.
1959

1959

Gli anni del boom
THE BOOM YEARS
In 1959 a new name appeared on the Italian Registry of Artisanal Businesses: Gilmar, acronym for Giuliana Marchini. The three original shareholders (Giuliana, her brother Luciano and her husband Silvano Gerani) each had a one third interest in the company.

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1964

1964

1964
So, in 1964 on Via Mancini in downtown Cattolica they opened Boutique Luciano, basically the first stand-alone Gilmar retail store. Visionary decisions such as this one contributed significantly to the company’s growth.

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1974

1974

MARCHI CHE FANNO TENDENZA
FASHION-FORWARD BRANDS
Born in 1974, Iceberg became a byword for a dynamic fashion-forward vision with a fresh American Pop Art slant (art genre of which the Geranis are avid collectors). This vision comes through in the wide range of products – from watches to shoes, childrenswear to homewear, all the way to exclusive mineral waters – that over the span of nearly forty years Iceberg has created thanks to a keen brand extension strategy. Originally ideated to meet changing consumer tastes and needs in the aftermath of the late 1960s sociocultural revolution, Iceberg evolved into the true force of a highly autonomous quick-response company still 100% controlled by the founding family. Specifically, Silvano Gerani is chairman, Paolo Chief Executive Officer, while Giuliana and Patrizia are both active as members of the board and in creative spheres of the business.

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1985

1985

1985
The process also included a series of new buildings, starting with a two-story family villa/workshop where the latest Gilmar designs intermingled with the toys of daughter Patrizia and son Paolo who by then had come along, and where the children’s bedrooms initially served also as stockrooms. Eventually they constructed a warehouse out back, but in no time that too became insufficient. Due to local urban planning regulations, any further expansion would first entail demolishing the family home which for Giuliana’s father represented forty years of hard work. While sad about it, Luigi went along with the move for he realized that company development depended on it. To be sure, booming business led in 1985 to the creation of a state-of-the-art industrial hub in San Giovanni in Marignano.
AN ULTRAMODERN FACTORY
The place is an impressive production/logistics center where thanks to the seamless merging of tradition and technology fine craftsmanship takes on an exquisitely contemporary connotation. The secret lies in the fact that all computer input re pattern making and size development, in addition to Gilmar’s famous graphic prints and embroideries, is the work of man and his at once invaluable and inexhaustible creativity. This 45,000-sqm structure holds the mind and heart of the company, in particular the styling, prototype, quality control and shipping departments. The customer warehouse, with a precision-perfect carousel system, can accommodate up to 250,000 garments. The idea for it came from Silvano Gerani, who after seeing a similar one at a Volkswagen plant in Germany figured that if it worked so well for auto parts it could surely do the job for clothes too. Ever in charge of business organization, real-estate expansion and production management for the family company, Silvano Gerani had a custom carousel system installed complete with in-house staff of technicians to ensure smooth operating at all times.

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2006

2006

2006
Always moving forward, they later drew upon the spirit and strategy behind the main line to talk to the new generations by launching, with the collection for fall/winter 2006-2007, the youth-oriented Ice Iceberg brand.

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2012

2012

Gilmar sigla un nuovo accordo per la collezione n°21
Yet the Gilmar story also involves the discovery of new young talents and the manufacturing of major brands under license, such as Marc by Marc Jacobs, Giambattista Valli and, starting with the spring/summer 2013 collection, N°21 designed by Alessandro Dell’Acqua (with whom the company signed a five-year contract). Frankie Morello, the smart and sassy menswear line by design duo Maurizio Modica and Pierfrancesco Gigliotti that debuted in 1999, is another Gilmar license brand, one which since spring/summer 2004 has included a women’s line (distributed by Gilmar as of 2005).
A further result of years of scouting is Brooksfield, a brand now in the Gilmar portfolio that back in the 1980s captured worldwide attention thanks to the contemporary appeal of an easy Anglo-American casual chic style.

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Apr 2013

2013 Apr

2013

April 2013

“BREAKING THE ICE – ICEBERG BY YI ZHOU” A UNIQUE CAPSULE COLLECTION

Iceberg, a Gilmar Group house brand, will begin launching Breaking the Ice – Iceberg by Yi Zhou in late June. A unique and special capsule collection designed by Yi Zhou, it’s an exquisitely Italian project under the creative direction of this young and talented Chinese artist.

The idea came from Yi Zhou’s rewarding encounter with Paolo Gerani, Artistic Director of the Iceberg brand. Basically, the Chinese artist would lend her talents to Made in Italy quality, craftsmanship and know-how, while China would become an outstanding example of creative design and no longer mere world capital of low-cost manufacturing.
Yi Zhou decided to have Iceberg produce clothes and accessories that will draw on her eccentric personal aesthetic and on her childhood experience of living in Italy, where she acquired a deep appreciation for Italian elegance and style.
Ultimately, Breaking the Ice – Iceberg by Yi Zhou will consist of men’s and women’s sportswear items that reflect in full the DNA of a brand famous across the globe for having given new definition to the genre.
The world premiere of this innovative iconic Iceberg collection by Yi Zhou will take place in July 2013 during a major multimedia event in Hong Kong.

Gilmar CEO/Artistic Director Paolo Gerani explains: “Yi Zhou is a woman with European sensibilities and a wonderfully fresh, effervescent sense of aesthetics. We set this project in motion as a way of inverting the current tendency to see the Chinese mainland solely as an enormous manufacturing center. China has other greater and richer potential, putting pure intelligence and sense of style to use in the design and development of Italian made products. It’s proof that artistic inspiration can be nationally neutral and that the industrial base in Italy in the clothing & textile sector can afford to speak any creative language, bring to life – in premium form – whatever type of fashion vision.”
Yi Zhou says: “As a Chinese artist I am very happy and honored to have been chosen to create a capsule collection for an Italian luxury brand. The project represents a whole new experience for me in that I am a multimedia artist by training and profession. Now the challenge is to stretch my abilities in the role of fashion designer. This is the first time that a Chinese finds herself in the position of ideating a complete collection, from clothes to matching accessories, all the way to the launch event/art installation and the relative window displays in all Iceberg stores. A 360° project, it’s a real opportunity for me and for Chinese artists of the new generation.”

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June 2013

2013 June

2013

Milan, 23 June 2013

FEDERICO CURRADI CREATIVE DIRECTOR OF ICEBERG MENSWEAR

Gilmar appoints Federico Curradi Creative Director of Iceberg
menswear, starting from the spring-summer 2014 season.

“It is a great honor for me to assume the role of Creative Director at Iceberg and to work
for one of the world’s leading fashion companies. My goal will be to offer a fresh slant
on the DNA of a brand that played a major part in introducing an upper sport style, the
concept of luxury casual wear, on the market. I will work by Paolo Gerani’s side, under
his Artistic Direction,” Federico Curradi enthuses.

Paolo Gerani, Gilmar CEO and Artistic Director, says: “This is a momentous occasion for
our company, one marking a time of change because never before in our history have
we named someone Creative Director of our brand. There’s a remarkable creative
affinity between Federico Curradi and me.”

Federico Curradi, 37, is a Florentine who gained valuable experience working for the
houses of Ermanno Scervino and Roberto Cavalli, making keen use of fine Italian
craftsmanship and aggressive American marketing know-how.

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Sept 2013

2013 Sept

2013
Milan, 20 September 2013

ICEBERG: ALEXIS MARTIAL TAKES OVER CREATIVE DIRECTION OF THE ICEBERG WOMEN’S LINE
The year 2014 has every prospect of being a hallmark one for Iceberg. Thanks to a repositioning of both product and image on all international markets, it will mark a turning point at a time of deep change for the entire fashion system.

Forty years after the brand’s launch, Iceberg is heading in a fresh direction with a new designer – Alexis Martial, young Parisian talent who boasts solid experience at Alexander McQueen, Givenchy and Paco Rabanne – as the creative force behind the women’s line and with the supervision of all projects fully in the hands of Paolo Gerani, Gilmar Group CEO.

Created in 1974 by Jean Charles de Castelbajac and Giuliana Marchini Gerani, Iceberg is a prominent Italian brand with a rich heritage and a strong luxury sportswear orientation.

The concept of fashion knitwear set the stage for the extraordinary communication strategy masterminded by photographer Oliviero Toscani with his famous “I Contemporanei” ad campaign where leading personalities from the worlds of art, sports and design captured attention in sweaters that were expressions of Pop Art experimentation conducted by Jean Charles de Castelbajac together with company founders Giuliana Marchini and husband Silvano Gerani.

“No nostalgia. Rather, we are moving keenly forward in the spirit of always toward contemporariness, creative imagination, above all with the sense of speed, freshness and wealth typical of Italian fashion,” Alexis Martial explains.

Here today on September 20th 2013 with the spring-summer 2014 collection Alexis Martial makes his debut as the creative director of Iceberg womenswear.

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Nov 2013

2013 Nov

2013
Milan, 7th November 2013

N°21 LAUNCHES ITS FIRST MEN’S COLLECTION DESIGNER BY ALESSANDRO DELL’ACQUA

Produced and distributed by GILMAR, the men’s collection is the natural evolution of N°21 world with well-defined style code.

N°21 men’s collection will be composed by 21 looks those which represent the perfect male wardrobe according to Alessandro dell’Acqua.
N°21 men’s collection will follow the same distribution as covered by the women’s collections, with the initial goal of reaching the most important multi-brand stores in Europe, America, Asia, the Middle East, as well as the best e-commerce.

“I’m excited about this new project, a key step in the growth and development of my brand.” said Alessandro Dell’Acqua founder and Creative Director of N°21.

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Dic 2013

2013 Dic

2013

ICEBERG AND MANTERO SETA SIGN NEW LICENSE AGREEMENT

Iceberg and Mantero Seta have signed a license agreement entrusting to the prominent Como-based silk weaving company the exclusive production and worldwide distribution of the Iceberg women’s textile accessories lines.

The partnership will begin effectively with the Iceberg Fall/Winter 2014/2015 women’s collection.
Innovation and tradition intersect at a time of great creative impetus for Iceberg. Now the fresh energy marking the new collections will also benefit from Mantero Seta’s solid experience and outstanding product quality.

This alliance between leading names in the spheres of knits and silks, respectively, will serve to enhance the value of the all-important “Made in Italy” factor with the aim of impacting the international fashion scene and meeting the demands of emerging markets.

Mantero is a family-run company established in Como (Italy) in 1902 by Riccardo Mantero. With more than a century of history, including the succession of four generations at the helm, the famous Italian silk weaver is now a modern integrated company with a solid organizational structure.

An undisputed leader in the creation, production and distribution of fabrics and textile accessories for men and women, it places the products under license on the market through its own branch offices abroad as well as through an extensive network of sales agents and distributors.

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Dic 2013

2013 Dic

2013

GILMAR SIGNS NEW LICENSE AGREEMENT FOR PAOLO PECORA MEN’S COLLECTION

Gilmar Group and Paolo Pecora announce an exclusive worldwide license agreement for the production and distribution of the Paolo Pecora menswear line.

The partnership marks a symbolic union between two leading names in the realm of premium knitwear, for both companies share a propensity for innovation, quality and research.
Adding to the high international profile of the project is a keen attention to marketing, merchandising and organization.

Starting with the fall/winter 2014-2015 season, the new collection will be available for sale at all Gilmar showrooms and by select agents and distributors. Also, it will make an exciting fashion debut at the January 2014 edition of the Pitti Immagine Uomo tradeshow in Florence.

“We are proud to participate in the new global launch and development of a brand that we’ve been following from close-up for some time,” says Gilmar CEO Paolo Gerani. “In particular we are impressed by the artful way it gives men’s clothing a smart contemporary twist.”
“For a brand such as ours, originally all about knits, this agreement coincides with a fresh beginning, the embarking on a new and important stage in our evolution,” comments Paolo Pecora. “Gilmar is surely one of the best in the Italian fashion industry, fully able to offer partners all the know-how, technological and otherwise, necessary for innovating production processes and heightening product quality.”

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Dic 2013

2013 Dic

A traveller, as it is the prerogative of all islanders, prone to the cultural mismatch of the sons of a land where different influences mingled over the centuries, merging into a rugged and layered heritage, Fausto Puglisi, born in Messina, Sicily, began his career in the USA. A passion for image- making and an appreciation for the precision of tailoring, combined with the urge to prove himself despite the difficulties, took him overseas, armed only with enthusiasm and classical studies. In New York, his work was soon appreciated and photographed by renowned stylists and image-makers. He shortly entered a virtuous circle, creating costumes for celebrities such as Jennifer Lopez and Whitney Houston, and selling his collection – a bunch of iconic separates – to Maxfield store in Los Angeles after winning the interest of Sarah Stewart. Other shops followed swiftly, but the real turning point occurred elsewhere: in Italy, in 2010, when Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana involved him in the innovative project Spiga 2.
Having his line displayed in the Milano concept store gave momentum: a fashion house made of eroticism and energy was born. The style credo is maximalist with minimalist dryness, or rather, minimalist with a maximal tingle. The perfection of the tailoring soon attracted the media: while making clothes for real women in Milano, Fausto Puglisi became part of the global showbiz scene. He has created the costumes for Nicki Minaj and M.I.A. at Madonna’s Super Bowl halftime show in 2012, for example. In the same year, he has been appointed artistic director of the maison Ungaro, debuting in Paris in March 2013. In October 2013, for the first time, his namesake collection was presented with a catwalk show in Milano.
The Apollonian and the Dionysian, excess and purity meet in a graphic bacchanal in the work of Fausto Puglisi. His style combines opposing elements in a tense harmony: baroque opulence and inexorable rhythm of optical art; sex appeal and severity; heroism and stardom; shyness and boldness. Omnivorous, Puglisi chases a timeless and ageless ideal of beauty as character, fusing opposite impulses in an incisive trait.
Fausto Puglisi loves hyperboles because he avoids compromises. The dry, masculine touch brings femininity to an nth, in a short- circuit in which sexual electricity does not exclude absolute aplomb. “Fashion as desire” is his message: glossy, yet visceral.

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Oct 2014

GILMAR PRESENTS GILMAR BOX

Virtual version of a continuously growing business, Gilmar online outlet offers a wide range of past menswear and womenswear collections of Iceberg and Ice Iceberg, in-house brands, and of N°21, Frankie Morello and Brooksfield, trademarks distributed by the group.

From high-end ready-to-wear to youth fashion lines, the wide choice of products and the quality of a careful and devoted service makes the shopping experience on Gilmar Box unique and exclusive.

Always seeking for innovation in terms of style, technology and communication, the fashion online outlet GILMAR BOX has a structure which provides a user-friendly and multi device experience and makes easier social networks sharing.

Discover Gilmar Box  http://www.gilmarbox.com/en/

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Jan 2015

ICEBERG SS15 ADV CAMPAIGN – DOWNTOWN GALLERY

“DOWNTOWN GALLERY”

Downtown Gallery is the new advertising campaign by Iceberg: 22 Polaroids, taken by Olivier Zahm to celebrate 40 years of the brand and its history, that has always been close to the art world. The campaign stars 12 faces of Downtown New York, wearing both Spring-Summer 2015 collection and historical pieces, true works of art from the archive of the brand.

In 1974 the brand Iceberg was founded thanks to Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, the first historical designer of the brand.

Paolo Gerani, CEO of the Gilmar group, said: “Downtown Gallery is our new communication project that pays tribute to my family and to Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, art-directed by Olivier Zahm, editor in chief and founder of Purple Magazine. Olivier cleverly interpreted the historical dialogue between Iceberg and the world of culture and art, as at first Oliviero Toscani did in I Contemporanei campaigns (1980-1986) with a gallery of characters including Andy Warhol, Vivienne Westwood, Franco Moschino, Ettore Sottsass, Elio Fiorucci, and as Steven Meisel did later on in the Gente di oggi campaigns (1993 – 1996) with Farrah Fawcett, Sofia Coppola, Iggy Pop and Isabella Rossellini.”

Olivier Zahm wanted to follow up on those historical campaigns, continuing the dialogue with the creativity and art world. “We went straight to the source, Downtown New York, which originally inspired the designer and founder Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, who used to collaborate with Andy Warhol and its Factory. We therefore decided to photograph some vintage iconic pieces from the 70’s together with the new Spring-Summer 2015 collection, in order to tell the story of 40 years history of the brand through iconic faces of today’s New York” says Olivier Zahm.

Inspired by Andy Warhol’s 70s Polaroids, Zahm has used an old Mamiya Press Universal to take portraits of 12 characters, including emerging and historical icons of the world of music, art, photography and entertainment. Thus Zahm portrayed, in addition to himself, musician Donald Cumming and his partner, actress Georgia Ford, journalist and writer Glenn O’Brien, the legendary founder of Sonic Youth Kim Gordon, artist Olaf Breuning, Stella Schnabel, photographer Sandy Kim, artist Rita Ackermann, journalist Karley Sciortino, rapper and performer Mykki Blanco and painter Jeanette Hayes.

Each character has also become the star of a short video in which he or she is filmed in silence just like Andy Warhol used to do in his famous Screen Tests.

The result, “Downtown Gallery”, is a timeless campaign that best expresses the contemporary approach of the brand and its hallmark link with the world of creativity.

CREDITS

Photography: Olivier Zahm, Gianni Oprandi

Art Direction: Olivier Zahm, Gianni Oprandi

Styling: Caroline Gaimari

Video: Julien Carlier & Aurelien Heilbronn

Hair: Jimmy Paul c/o Susan Price

Make-up: Kristin Gallegos c/o The Wall Group

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Jun 2015

ICEBERG:  ARTHUR ARBESSER ASSUMES CREATIVE DIRECTION OF THE WOMEN’S LINE

Arthur Arbesser

Milan (Italy), June 2015 – Gilmar announces that as of the spring/summer 2016 collection Arthur Arbesser will be the new designer head of creative direction for the Iceberg womenswear line.
A 33-year-old Austrian who lives and works in Milan, Arbesser is currently one of the most interesting young talents on the Italian fashion scene.
The designer launched his signature line in 2013, promptly winning the “Who’s On Next?” award. In May 2015 he was named a finalist for the prestigious LVMH-Prize. In september 2015 his own line will make its catwalk debut during Milan Fashion Week.

“The Iceberg brand has always made a mark for cutting-edge research, the creation of new trends and the scouting of young creatives. Arthur epitomizes both the brand’s DNA and fine Italian craftsmanship, all in one” says Paolo Gerani.

“Iceberg” says Arthur Arbesser “stands for color, graphics, quality and irony, which are all characteristics I share as well. I’m honored to continue the beautiful 40 year long story of this iconic Italian brand.”

The first appointment on Arthur Arbesser’s calendar for Iceberg will be the women’s fashion show in September.

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Nov 2015

JAMES LONG IS APPOINTED CREATIVE DIRECTOR OF ICEBERG MENSWEAR

James Long - Iceberg menswear

Gilmar Group announces the appointment of London based designer James Long to the position of Creative Director for the Iceberg menswear line.

Renowned for his provocative yet wearable designs, combining an eye for style with meticulous attention to detail, James has become a cornerstone of the booming London menswear scene following his runway debut for Autumn/Winter 2008.

“The sportswear aesthetic, the innovative approach to knitwear, the passion for prints and the employ of technical fabrics, make James Long the right creative director of Iceberg menswear collection, interpreting the DNA of the brand, made of handcrafting, research, knitwear, bold colours and playfulness; always respecting the Made in Italy” says Paolo Gerani, CEO of Gilmar Group.

James Long’s Autumn/Winter 2016 collection for Iceberg menswear will be revealed during Milan Fashion Week in January 2016. James will continue to show his eponymous line at London Collections: Men.

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Jul 2016

ICEBERG FALL/WINTER 2016/17 AD CAMPAIGN

Arthur Arbesser

Meet the Models! Charlie Kennedy, Ewa Wladymiruk, Henry Kitcher, Jena Goldsack, and Rio Allison are the protagonist of the Iceberg Fall/Winter 2016/17 Ad Campaign, shot by Ben Weller and styled by Luke Day. Pop influences rule, with colourful sporty pieces and graphic icons revisited such as Mickey Mouse.

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Dec 2016

ICEBERG LAUNCHES AN INNOVATIVE ADVERTISING CAMPAIGN, INTEGRATED WITH THE SOCIAL WORLD, WITH SARAH SNYDER AND LUKA SABBAT AS BRAND AMBASSADOR AND STYLISTS.

Arthur Arbesser

December 1st 2016 – After presenting the capsule collection with prestigious New York retailer Kith by Ronnie Fieg, Iceberg follows through its project with the launch of a new communication campaign based on the concept of fearlessly creative. The revolutionary new advertising campaign for S/S 2017 will star two top models and key influencers: Sarah Snyder, model and irreverent socialite, and Luka Sabbat, famous model, digital editor and stylist.

Produced entirely in New York, the campaign sees Sarah and Luka taking an active part, not only in the creation of looks as stylists, but snapping shots as photographers of themselves. Digital cameras in hand, the models contributed to the photo shoot interacting spontaneously with each other, just as they usually do in their real and “digital” lives. This concept inspired by the era of social media, immediately goes viral thanks to posts shared on line by Sarah and Luka, during the shoot. The campaign will also include plenty of Instagram stories shared on the net, telling the story of the world of Iceberg. A new interpretation of the Iceberg soul: fearlessly creative.

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